Jim Corbett NationalPark

In the Forest of the Night

Jim Corbett National Park

It is thrilling to watch the mysteries of wildlife unfold, from a self-inflicted periphery, finds Pankaj Molekhi.

Wildlife King Size

(General Features)

Death rules supreme in the woods. Thick cover of sal trees, unabated growth of lantana bushes, and dense long grass - nowhere does life sit as precariously as it does here. There are patches, which even daylight cannot penetrate, the vision is minimal, and one has to rely on instincts alone. One slip of toe, single faulty step, or one bad judgment can send you reeling into the jaws of death. Even predators can become the prey. But, is there no possibility for the man to watch these mysteries of wildlife unfold, from a self-inflicted periphery. Mercifully, there is…

Welcome to the wild stretches of Jim Corbett National Park, the first wildlife reserve of India, extending over an area of more than 500 sq km in the Himalayan foothills. Thanks to trained guides and State tourism department, you need not be too adventurous to stay in the middle of jungle - now strewn with tourist lodges - and witness the wildlife in jeep/elephant safari.

And a brief stay here should remain a fond memory for the years to come. For, to spot a leopard perched licking his paws atop a tree; to watch a regiment of pachyderms frolicking in muddy water; or to even hear a tiger growl late in the night, indeed make a gripping bedtime story for your grandchildren.

The tourist season begins in November every year and closes in June. The first two-three months are ideal for bird watching. During this season, one can spot over 500 species of winged creatures here; prominent among them being greylag, barheaded goose, grepe, snipe, sandpiper, gull, great pied hornbills, warblers, finches, and various wagtails. Besides these, the birdlife here includes parakeets, flycatchers, babblers, cuckoos, robins, and bulbuls.

Survivors Will be Prosecuted

(Flora and Fauna)

The onset of March is best suited for animal viewing. Corbett has the highest density of Tiger in the country, approximately one every 10 sq km. Nonetheless, tiger is an elusive cat, and its sighting is rare for amateurs. In Corbett, too, one often may come across alarm calls made by birds and monkeys, indicating the presence of a predator in the vicinity, but to spot the majestic animal can still remain an ambition. Even those groups who camp overnight near a waterhole on full moon nights, lament that the closest they came to a tiger was its growling voice in the dead of night. But guides believe that normally, most groups become too excited after seeing as much as a fresh set of pugmarks. One should be very patient and quiet to outwit the king of jungle. Not every pugmark can lead you home. It is only in Ranthambhor that tigers are well acquainted with jeep and other vehicles, and can be spotted even on the road. A different set of rules applies in Corbett, where incidence of poaching is on the rise. This advice is worth considering for those planning a visit to Corbett.

Elephant herds on the other hand are far easier to spot. In a pachyderm family, calves are the most enjoyable to watch. Here one should not forget that an elephant herd with calves is perhaps the most dangerous encounter in the wild, for elephants are possessive of their young. There have been many instances when they charge at the jeep. So a safe distance from the herd is always advisable.

To spot a leopard, one needs to be more adventurous, and go a little higher on the hilly terrain. Leopards in Corbett are well fed, thanks to a regular supply of the simian prey, but just as elusive as tigers. Other feline species found in the Park are jungle cats and caracal. Wild boars, bears, wild dogs, jackals, spotted deer, hog deer can also be spotted.

Reptiles basking in the swampy banks of the Ramganga are also a delight to watch. Crocodiles, gharials (gavialis gangeticus), and sometimes rock pythons are spotted easily. Among venomous reptiles, vipers, cobras, and kraits inhabit the park.

Shisham (Dalbergia sissoo) and khair (Acacia katechu) trees are found in the middle reaches, while the upper reaches of the mountains are full of bakli (Anogeissus latifolia), chir (Pinus roxburghii), gurail (Bauhinia racemosa) and bamboo trees. The Park is dotted with lantana shrubs, a species that is a great cause for concern. Imported years ago from America, the lantana shrub ensures that nothing else grows near it.

The Ramganga river flows through the entire length of the park and little forest streams and rivulets tumble through the ravines. The Ramganga is rich in the magnificent mahaseer-- a fine sporting fish prized by anglers, though angling inside the park is not permitted. It is also rife with gharials (a long-nosed species of crocodile) that can kill human beings. One notice at Ghairal that warns against swimming in the Ramganga needs a mention here. It says: “Survivors will be prosecuted”.

Brave as a Tiger

(Corbett's Profile)

Here, a word about the early years of this park, and also Jim Corbett, the legendary hunter-turned-conservationist, would not be out of place. It was in August 1936 that the British Government, on the advice of Corbett, declared this foothill region of United Province (now Uttar Pradesh) as Hailey National Park, naming it after the UP Governor, Sir Malcolm Hailey. After independence, in 1952, the Park was rechristened as Ramganga National Park, situated as it was on the banks of the river Ramganga, one of the major contributory of the Ganges. Five years later, the forest reserve was renamed yet again as Jim Corbett National Park.

Corbett, a middle-level officer of Scottish origin, had rid the Kumaon and Garhwal regions of man-eating tigers and leopards. Known as Carpet Sahib among local pahari populace he became folklore even during his lifetime. Brought up in the Kumaon administrative district, Corbett, the eighth child of a postmaster, gave up on academics early, proved his prowess at the gun at the age of eight. In his early days, hunted peafowl or boars for family kitchen. Gradually, he was drawn into big game. His splintered career included working as a storekeeper, contractor, as well as captain in World War I. But it was his way with the jungle that earned him recognition.

Stories of his bravery in prose and verse ran far and wide the UP hills. He was revered as a deity by most and considered a White Brahmin by all in the hills. During his last days in British India, Corbett transformed into a conservationist, hung his boots, and worked for the betterment of Indian wildlife. A national park after his name was a befitting tribute to this hero. The places that he frequented for game exploits have today become natural resorts for tourists while his home, on road to Nainital, is a museum.

Wheeling Around

(How to get there and accommodation)

Corbett National Park is located in Nainital district of Uttaranchal. The park is about 250 km from New Delhi. The nearest railhead is Ramnagar, about 20 km from the park. The sleepy town of Ramnagar is now home to a host of local tour operators, organizing quick safaris in the park. Cheap accommodation is therefore no problem for budget travelers. For the luxury oriented, there are up market cottages inside and at the periphery of the national park.

The best places to stay within the park are at Khinnauli, Sarapduli, Bijrani, and Ghairal.

Dhikala being the most popular is rather crowded with tourists during season. It is advisable to stay in Gairal, which is quiet and offers better sightings. Ramnagar, the headquarters of Project Tiger, is also a good place to stay, provided you have prior permission from the field director. Jeeps can be hired from here for safaris into the park, and accommodation is better than at Dhikala and Gairal.

Elephant safaris can be arranged in Dhikala and Bijrani. The charges for two hours is upward 120 for foreigners and Rs 20 for Indians. Jeep safaris are available from outside the park as well as from Dhikala. Prices are upward Rs 600 (plus petrol) for full day. For further inquiries, one can contact the Field Director, Corbett National Park, Post Office Ramnagar, District Nainital, Uttaranchal.

By Pankaj Molekhi